Kilkenny is only 90 minutes southeast of Dublin, but it is a world away from it in every way that matters.
After the big city experience in Dublin, Kilkenny is a refreshing change and finally what we’re looking for in Ireland.
The city traces its roots back to the 6th century, when St. Canice founded a monastic settlement here.
We stopped at the cathedral that bears his name for a few photos, but opted not to pay the five euros to climb the tower for its views over the city.
Then the Normans arrived in the 12th century and built Kilkenny Castle above the River Nore.
The castle is the obvious draw here, with eight hundred years of continuous occupation.
The grounds run down to the river and the gardens are nice to stroll through although honestly we thought they weren’t up to most European city standards.
And photo nerds can’t stand buildings with no symmetry – honestly, who builds a castle with offset doors?
Opt for a walk through the Butler Garden just to the north of the castle for better greenery.
The stretch from the castle north to St. Canice’s is known as the Medieval Mile, and it’s exactly as it sounds – medieval churches, old almshouses, hidden alleys like Pudding Lane and the Butterslip, and of course there’s enough shopping to keep the typical tourist happy.
On a beer note – Smithwick’s has been brewed here since 1710, on the grounds of an abbey where monks were already brewing ale in the 14th century.
The Irish were clearly not going to let a good brewing location go to waste just because the monks left.
We didn’t do this tour since we had just done the Guinness Storehouse tour, but if any of you do this tour – drop us a note and let us know what you think!
We stayed at the Kilkenny Ormonde hotel, a little high class for our usual travel taste, but very nice.
Even going in with fairly low expectations we still came away very pleased with this stop.
If you’re doing an Ireland loop, we definitely recommend a night here.
Pudding Lane
When I saw this sign I started singing Pink Floyd. Now how can you have any pudding if you don’t eat your meat!
Down The Butterslip
I’m not sure why this alley is called the Butterslip
Old and New
Mobile phone repairs in front, old cathedral in the back. Classic European town.
Celtic Cross
So many cemeteries and so many Celtic crosses
St Canice’s Cathedral
There are as many religious buildings in Europe as there are government buildings.
Above The River Nore
Many Irish castles and forts are above waterways where they controlled trade.
Afternoon On The Water
Tourists taking a boat tour along the River Nore
Sunning Myself
This cat is living the life of Riley napping high above the river on the castle wall.
Kilkenny Castle
The castle is much more photogenic from the west side than the non-symmetrical east side. Colette for scale.
Kilkenny Cats
One of 21 Kilkenny Cat artwork sculptures along the Kilkenny Catwalk.
Into The Garden
The Butler Gardens are great for photo nerds
These Tulips
Just punch you right in the eyeball!
Fit For A King
Now this view and these brews are perfect for us peasants
Classic Europe
Now this is exactly what I expect from Ireland!
