What better way to finish off the Colorado 14ers than getting both Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle via the Crestone Traverse?
Yes I know this post is out of order, I have 3 or 4 others pending but wanted to get this out there while it’s fresh.
When doing my first 14ers with my buddy SuperDave to prepare for Kilimanjaro, I never even considered that I would ever hike and climb all 58 of them.
Too many, too long, too strenuous, too technical, too many too’s that it never was even a thought.
Fast-forward 8 years and it’s a crazy thing to check the last ones off the list, as well as having a bunch of 13ers and other peaks under the belt as well.
The Crestone Traverse is one of the 4 Great Traverses in Colorado, a Class 5 route spanning the ridge between 3rd class Crestone Peak and 4th class Crestone Needle.
Many people climb both peaks separately as this is the easiest and safest option with no technical climbing, but then you have a ton of extra mileage and elevation gain.
If you’re comfortable with extremely exposed (a 2,000 foot drop on the headwall!) Class 4 climbing and low 5th Class to get up The Bulge, you can have a super fun time with the Crestone Traverse instead.
The weekend weather was pretty sketchy, with Dasani getting turned back on Pyramid Peak on Friday due to rain and snow. Class 4 climbing is a no-go if the rock is wet, and heavy thunderstorms mean lightning which is a quick way to get dead on an exposed peak. Good on him for calling it, the mountains will always be there.
The Friday evening storm dumped light snow on the peaks, and we could see snow on Little Bear, Blanca and Ellingwood right out the window of the RV. No bueno.
Saturday night’s forecast called for light rain and maybe some snow at elevation, however since Sunday’s forecast looked good Dasani and I drove up the horrendous road to the upper South Colony Lakes trailhead and backpacked into the lake.
The Long Walk
It seems like a lot longer than four miles to get to South Colony Lakes
Needle Eruption
These clouds look like the Crestone Needle is a volcano erupting
Gloomy Skies
It sure looks dreary here as we hike into South Colony Lakes
Sangre De Cristo Wilderness
The entire area around the South Colony Lakes is gorgeous wilderness
What started as heavy overcast skies turned to rain and wind throughout the night, so we slept in until 3:45 to give the sun some extra time to burn off moisture before we got to anything tough.
Tucked In
This might be one of the best protected campsites we’ve ever had, tucked in among the thick krummholz.
South Colony Lakes Campsite 360
South Colony Lakes Campsite 360 – click and scroll around!
South Colony Lakes 360
South Colony Lakes 360 – click and scroll around!
Momentary Reprieve
We had a bit of reprieve from the weather and enjoyed relaxing at South Colony Lakes until the wind picked up.
Aint No Sunshine
Finally the forecasted weather blasted in, with high wind and rain.
Clear, starlit skies welcomed us, and the views going up Broken Hand Pass over to Cottonwood Lake were amazing in the dark.
Morning Spires
An amazing night view from the top of Broken Hand Pass. Not terrible for a phone.
Cottonwood Lake Reflection
A bright star over Broken Hand Pass is reflected in Cottonwood Lake as we make our way towards the Red Gully
As intended, the sky was already lightening up by the time we reached the base of the Red Gully – a high Class 3 (or Class 4 if you want) gully bisecting the south face of Crestone Peak.
Moving Clouds
Watching the clouds move up
Serious, serious fun – we both commented the entire way up just how enjoyable this climbing was and that we may have new favorite peaks.
Sunrise Break
The sun lights up the clouds overhead as we ascend the Red Gully on Crestone Peak.
Crazy Rock
Most of the rock up here is this crazy conglomerate. It’s very grippy and provides huge beautiful handholds.
Clouding Up
Clouds settle in below us and start working their way up.
Almost There
Dasani is almost to the top of the Red Gully
Coming Up
A shot down the Red Gully
Wide Load
Making a move up the Red Gully
Up The Red Gully
An Insta360 screen capture as we head up the Red Gully on Crestone Peak
Red Rubble
An Insta360 screen capture as we head up the Red Gully on Crestone Peak
Wingspan
It’s good to be tall and have long arms!
Look Out
What an amazing view from the top of the Red Gully
Red Gully 360 Video
Going up the Red Gully – 360 video – select high quality from the gear icon and scroll around
The summit of Crestone Peak is pretty meh, with Dasani topping it first to check off number 56 on his list.
Fifty-Six
Dasani checks off number 56 on his list as he summits Crestone Peak.
Crestone Peak Summit Video
Dasani summits Crestone Peak
Crestone Peak Ussie
An ussie of Dasani and myself on Crestone Peak with Kit Carson Peak in the background.
Zen Duck
Danger Duck having a zen moment on Crestone Peak before we head across the Crestone Traverse to Crestone Needle.
Lotsa Flat
Looking out at Sand Dunes National Park
From the summit you descend a bit back down the Red Gully to the start of the Crestone Traverse.
Traverse Cross
Moving across the Crestone Traverse
Here the routefinding is a bit tougher, but the description, photos, and GPX track from 14ers.com is pretty good and soon you find yourself below the Black Gendarme looking up at The Bulge.
The Black Gendarme
Fast moving clouds obscure the Black Gendarme and Crestone Needle as we make our way across the Crestone Traverse
Some people consider The Bulge to be the crux of the Crestone Traverse as it is a 5.2 move up an overhang, however for us tall folks with long wingspans it’s a quick and easy step and pull up.
Below The Bulge
Dasani analyzes the 5.2 bulge on the Crestone Traverse
Bulge 360 Video
Bulge 360 video – select high quality from the gear icon and scroll around
A little tougher for Dasani, but he nailed it pretty quickly and we ascended to The Catwalk, a narrow exposed rib that takes you back out to the south face of the ridge.
Bulge Video
Dasani tops The Bulge
Crestone Catwalk
Balancing across the narrow catwalk on the Crestone Traverse.
Bulge to Catwalk 360 Video
Bulge to Catwalk 360 video – select high quality from the gear icon and scroll around
You reach the base of The Headwall shortly after this, a super-exposed Class 4 climb to the summit of Crestone Needle.
Crestone Headwall
Coming up the famous headwall from the Crestone Traverse to Crestone Needle.
Crestone Headwall 360 Video
Crestone Headwall 360 video – select high quality from the gear icon and scroll around
The rock up here is so good with huge handholds that it’s like being in a climbing gym.
If exposure gives you the willies – do NOT look down or around the north edge of the wall.
Luckily neither of us have this issue and we quickly summit and celebrate.
Headwall to Summit 360 Video
Headwall to summit 360 video – select high quality from the gear icon and scroll around
I brought numbers 5 and 8 balloons for photos, and after a quick celebration call to Colette we headed down the Class 4 regular route from Crestone Needle to break camp and head out.
Crestone Needle Summit 360 1
Click and scroll around!
Crestone Needle Summit 360 2
Scroll around!
Crestone Needle Summit 360 3
Click and scroll around!
Technical Only
A sign warning you that continuing from Crestone Needle to the Crestone Traverse is technical only. I love the little falling guy cutout.
Fifty-Eight
I brought balloons up for finisher photos. The headwall to the Crestone Traverse is over the edge behind me.
Crestone Needle Ussie
Happy climbers – 57 for Dasani and 58 for myself
It’s an amazing feeling to join a group of roughly 2,200 other people who have climbed all 58 Colorado 14ers, and pulling data from all 58 peaks in my Garmin history gives some pretty neat statistics:
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209,676.7 feet of elevation gain
510.97 miles hiked or climbed
416:15 hours, roughly 17.3 days of hike and climb time
168,627 calories burned
It’s definitely a must to have a supportive spouse – that’s a lot of time away, days and days of training time, planning time, route mapping, it’s definitely not for everyone.
I think it’s time for some downtime, of course – after checking Wheeler Peak NM off the state highpoint list this weekend 🙂
The World Below
Looking down at the slopes above Cottonwood Lake from Crestone Needle
Humboldt Peak
Looking across at Humboldt Peak from Broken Hand Pass.
Much Better Views
Today’s views of Crestone Needle are much nicer than yesterdays.
Standard Route
Crestone Needle dominates this landscape
Happy Happy Happy
Dasani looks MUCH happier heading this direction!
Fall Has Arrived
Fall is starting at high elevation
